place2place

in which we visit Chekhov's house

Sick of Chekhov yet? Me neither. Today is his 150th birthday.

So today I went to his house, which you can probably see from the Embassy if you are in the right office. It's on Kudrinskya; I like saying it.

I walked in and saw a sign that said, students, 60 rubles, foreigners, 100 rubles. There is probably a "local" price, which you are entitled to, with your embassy badge, but I didn't even try. 100 rubles = $3. To see Chekhov's house? I don't need to negotiate it down to $2.50. Then the lady came out of her little booth, took me by the arm, sweetly, to show me the sign in English that explains that the price posted is to take pictures. And no more than two pictures in each room. Okaaaaay.

I'd worn fifteen layers of clothing, even though it's warmed up to 7F,  but I checked my coat. I get the feeling the coat check guy is a hoot, but I can't understand him, so I just laugh in a generalized, idiotic way. He offers me overshoes, which I decline, I don't want to be the only freak with overshoes.

The first room is portraits and someone's parasol, maybe Chekhov's walking cane, I think I recognize it from photos, but who can tell? The lables are all in Russian. It's all cool though--parasols and canes and early playbills-- I mean, no one loves ephemera more than I do. And hitting me in the face is the portrait I love, the one his brother painted. You know it by now.

But there is another room! His sitting room! Where he received patients, and friends. Oh, only people like Tchikovsky, but, whatever! Check out his leather doctor bag and eye glasses. His desk and lamp, and here have a chair. You can sit and hang out for a while, commune with his ghost.

Off the sitting room, on either side of the Carl Larson-esque stove, are his and his brother's rooms. Why do we have such huge beds now? Here is the bed Anton Chekhov slept in, and it's like a junior twin. I love the 19th century.

And it's all in dacha style with the tapetry on the wall, next to the bed. His mother made that tapestry. *dies*

I'm fangirling over Anton Chekhov and his interiors. Fine. Also, there is a rug over the table in the sitting room. *rumages through closet to find rug to put on table*

There's more, you can go upstairs, run your hand along the worn red velvet-covered handrail his sister loved. Upstairs, a piano his brother played in the mornings while Chekhov wrote downstairs. Chekov's favorite piece was Chopin's prelude #6. "Chopin is everyone's favorite," says Peter.

His sister's room is upstairs. Her little sewing machine, her gray velvet-covered sofa. Could you die of love?

So as I'm wandering around communing with every little thing, I notice I am the only clueless person not ruining the best short-story writer in the history of the universe's floor by not wearing overshoes.

Americans! We are so clueless, and dirty. And I took more than two pictures in some of the rooms too! But I evened it out by not taking ANY pictures in other rooms.

You can see his playing cards, and his toothbrush, (ew, says Camille) prescriptions he'd written out, photos he'd taken and his dishes, and envelopes he'd made out of newsprint and tied with red string, (I'm so doing this) his waistcoat that closed with cuff-link-like buttons and pajamas embroidered with his initials, and hand-written manuscripts and little notebooks...his life, all right there to see. Everything and almost him.

Click and the collage will get bigger. Click on Moscow Photo a Day to find out more about Chekhov and his crazy-amazing life.

design ideas from 1737

Overseas State Department people frequently complain about our living spaces. I mean, this 1980's apartment oak trim and gas-station-bathroom-style kitchen counters scream: I'd be a perfect set for a John Houston movie! And I get how hard it must be to please so many people, so I understand the standard Drexell furniture, but don't even bring up the light fixtures. I want to write to Oprah and ask that amazing decorator "What kind of miracles can you work with govenment issue?"

My asthebeetgoeson blogger friend Amanda recently posted some pictures of the interior of St. Basil's Cathedral, with the note, "This is in case I ever want to paint my dining room." And my brian went booooiiiinnnnggg.

Why paint when I can just photoshop?

The exterior of St Basil's is such an icon,it's easy to forget it has an interior, which is just as OMG as the exterior. St. Basil's was built in the 1500s, but these interiors were done in the 1700s. I guess OMG is the whole point.

Dining room before.

And, voila. Amanda is really onto something. I have to do this. Where do you buy paint in this country? (Click for bigger pictures if you want.)

Camille and Stefan recently swapped rooms. I don't think painting Stefan's room like the interior of a church would really go with piles of toys and kapla airports. But maybe our room?

From our room you can see the Russian white house and watch the ice skaters across the street. You can also hear the music played at the rink until about ten o clock every night.

My new Russian alphabet pillow Peter got me at Ismilova. T is for telephone, L is for fox, K is for whale, C is for elephant.

How can this be improved besides removing that horrible phone and shopping somewhere besides Ikea?

It's clear, our bedroom needs to be painted like the interior of a world heritage site. I never knew.

I need this light fixture too.

stefanbea

Since coming back from going snowboarding once, Stefan and his friends spend hours grooming their new ski resort, where of course you ski on your shoes. "Homemade Ski Hill" features a number of runs, rated green through black diamond, and have names like Hopper, Bear Slope, and Bea's Favorite.

life with bea

Bea at 7 weeks

For quite some time now, we have been contemplating getting a dog. I have always favored dogs although Dina and I had a cat and I found I love them too. Years ago, I discovered a rare breed of dog; the Portuguese Waterdog. I really wanted one but was not in a position to care for a dog given work schedules and the time needed to exercise such a breed. 

Now we felt the time was right; the kids really wanted one and could help with walking and feeding it. Dina is at home a lot so she can care for it and I work right across the street. The question was, what kind of breed? We needed a little dog that could travel well on airplanes by being tucked under the seat in front of us. I was never fond of lapdogs. But my niece, Palina, has a small dog (Lola) that we are very fond of and it seems fitting since smaller dogs are easier to care for. 

After much research, we decided the timing was right. During the Christmas break, we looked at differnet smaller breeds: Westies, Bichon Frise, King Charles Spaniels... and Melissa was very helpful in finding local dogs in the Sacramento area where we could look at pups. But it had to be the right dog with a mellow temperament and small size (under 15 pounds). She brought a litter of Lhaso Apso's to my attention. I knew nothing about the breed. Reading about them I discovered that they are originally known as the Tibetan Terrier (although they are not terriers). The Dali Lama and Buddist monks raised them for companionship and their calm temperament. They have keen hearing and alert bigger dogs in the temples when strangers or visitors are coming.

This litter seemed perfect. A frail grandmother owned the female and her daughter owned the male. It was right after Christmas so we got the pick of the litter. One of the males was quite attractive. He had beautiful markings of black and white but he was a bit too frisky. The tawny female was the gentlest. She was curious and came over a few times while her brother chewed on my finger. She let me roll her over on her back without fuss and we observed the litter for about an hour and a half. She clearly won my over so I bought her and brought her home.

We named her Bea (short for Beatrix) although there were many other names on the short list. She seems to be bright and learns fast. She socializes well with people and other dogs and the kids really like her.

It was a long flight home from California but she did remarkably well in a carrier and she is now 9 weeks old and already used to the snow and her daily routines. Yesterday she played outside with Stefan and his friends while they built a "ski park" and slid down a steep hill squatting on their heels while she chased them up and down! We are reading lots of books and articles on dog training and raising a puppy. her Tyotya Tanya has given us lots of tips as well as how to make our own dog food. It's a lot of work but fun to have a puppy in the house!

a month of bliss

I'm sitting in the the SF airport waiting to board a flight to Moscow via Atlanta/Paris. I've been home a month and had a terrific time. 

Initially I flew to SF and came to Davis to see my cousins (brother and sister really) for just a day before flying up to Juneau, Alaska. Nina and I spent 3 great days together in preparation for the premier of my parents two operas: "The Gift of the Magi" and "The Last Leaf,"  adapted from the O. Henry stories. It was magical and emotional. Well done "Opera to Go." I salute you. 

I flew to Seattle and spent 5 days there visiting my sisters and a very dear friend, Michele. It was great to see everyone and catch up. Alex had us over at the Club for a fabulous Christmas feast with professional Currier & Yves carolers. Helen and I decorated her tree. 

I then flew back to Davis in preparation to retrieve my family but you all heard about what happened with delays. Finally, 4 days later, they arrived to California via Beijing! Air China was far more gracious than United and even upgraded their seats.

We had Christmas Eve in Davis and spent Christmas Day in Sacramento. Great food, wine, and company.

On the 27th, we drove to Lake Tahoe to spend some time with our dear friends; Evan and Luanne. Their children are about the same age as ours. We went sledding, skiing, and enjoyed more good company and wine in front of the fire place.

Due to a sudden snow storm, we drove back to Davis late Dec. 29th so that Dina could guarantee a flight to southern California to see 2 David Cook shows. y plans to drive down and visit Serge were altered because he flew up north to visit his mother in the hospital. So I drove over to see them and am so glad I did. Richard made a great feast. I'm sorry to see Tyotya Irina in such a state but I am glad to know she is getting such great loving care from her family.

The kids and I met the New Year with Milla and family in Davis. It was nice to see be there with them and we all hope 2010 will be a favorable year for all. Cheers!

Dina flew back after a great NY Eve concert with friends and we took a trip up to Paradise to see her parents one more time before going home.

We got a puppy just after Christmas. Her name is Bea. She is a Lhaso Apso and fitting in well. The month flew by but didn't feel rushed. I was pleased to see friends and family and wished I could have seen more. It's strange to come home after living overseas but there truly is nothing better than friends and family.

Now let's see what it's gonna be like flying back to Moscow via Atlanta/Paris with a puppy in tow.