Someone asked the other day what there is to do in Muscat and I said, "Nothing, and that's why I like it." Here are some of those dolce far nientes:
Shangri La
The resort that lives up to its name. Even though the hotel is only 20 minutes from town, many people go stay the night or go for the weekend. Between Christmas and New Years, we spent one night, which is nice because in the the evenings you can listen to live music, drink wine on the beach, and stare at the stars from the jacuzzi. But the rooms are $250 minimum for two, and over $500 for a triple, so now I think a day pass is a better deal. The limited passes do sell out, so a couple weeks a go when we had visitors, I went up early to secure our spots and enjoyed a couple hours by myself on a thickly padded lounge chair. We all enjoyed lounging under umbrellas on the private beach, swimming in the incredible swimming pools and a gorgeous buffet lunch. Other friends like to do the same thing at the Al Bustan, but I am creature of Shangri La habit.
Mutrah Souk
Good place to buy jewelry if you like old weird stuff, scented oils, frankincense and incense burners. I've also picked up lovely scarves here, and a friend bought the most incredible piece of labradite. Camille's boyfriend came here to buy a dishdash and the hat all the men wear and then everyone spoke to him in Arabic. So it depends on what you are into, but just the scene is worth a wander. If you want to hang with the locals though, go to the mall.
Fanageen
Right on the beach, Fanageen serves a great local-style breakfast. I feel badly that I haven't learned the actual names of the spicy beans and lentil dish served alongside the rose-flavored vermicelli. Fava-bean hummus, hloami cheese, cucumber, scrambled eggs and the traditional, delicious local flat bread keep us coming back.
Kargeen
Enter through a cloud of frankincense, and sit under a huge banyan tree on local-style furniture under glowing lanterns. It's like Disneyland's Tiki Room for real. And the food keeps up with the atmosphere: shua, omani-style lamb cooked in a banana leaf until it falls apart, Yemeni vegetables, green salad with avocado and pomegranate seeds are some of our favorites. The flat breads arrive at the table fresh off the round grill.
Wadi Shab
A two hour drive from Muscat gets you to Bimah, a lagoon that looks unreal. After a swim, continue on to Wadi Shab for a 45-minute walk through a canyon, under palm trees, through boulders and along clear water pools. The trail ends at a series of pools. A five or ten minute swim brings you to an enclosed cave. Swim through a slit in the canyon, with just enough room for your head, and you enter a deep pool cave where a waterfall crashes from a hole in the rocks above illuminating the cave. Incredible.
Nizwa Souk and Bahla Fort
Two world heritage sites, both the souk and fort are camera-ready.
Anantara
These hotels are known to be the ultimate and the Jebel Akbar canyon setting does not disappoint, but at $550 for a double, $1200 for a triple, crazy, crazy expensive. It's worth the drive though just to go just for lunch.
Mutrah Trail
My least favorite hike on a steep and rocky 5000-year-old trail. But the views are great, and it's right in town.
Snorkling at the Diaymaniyat Islands
The kind skipper Farad takes you straight out to sea to the Daymaniyat Islands nature preserve where you commune with turtles and, as he says, swim with the beautiful "fishies," while you loll about in turquoise water. He has nicknames for the various coral gardens like they are his own back yard, and knows how to find the best spots to find turtles or the clearest water given the weather conditions. From May to October, the islands are off limits, so you enjoy the area by swimming in the coves. The rest of the year, you can explore the islands on foot to find your own private white sand beach, maybe with its own osprey nest. After a simple lunch of sandwiches, fruit and cookies that Farad provides, you skim over the waves and arrive back to the dock by 2 PM. In spite of one time hitting water so rough I shared my morning tea with the fish, ("Puke and rally," said Camille) snorkeling at the Daymaniyat Island is my favorite thing to do here.